LEARN MORE
COMMON
QUESTIONS
Q. What is your experience and licensing?
A. We have 30 years experience and are licensed in Ohio and West Virginia.
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Q. How do you handle site preparation and drainage?
A. Proper grading is essential, as water is the primary cause of damage. We always inspect pavement areas for stability and proper drainage prior to moving forward with any projects.
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Q. How thick will the asphalt be?
A. Ensure the contractor specifies compacted thickness, typically 1.5 to 2 inches for overlays, 3 to 4 inches for new driveways.
Q. What materials and mix are you using?
A. #301 asphalt base material, #448 asphalt intermediate material, #448 asphalt surface material.
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Q. Is asphalt better than concrete?
A. Asphalt is generally cheaper and faster to install and easier to repair. Concrete lasts longer and handles heavier loads but is more expensive upfront.
Q. What is the difference between sealcoating and resurfacing?
A. Sealcoating is protective maintenance, while resurfacing is a repair method involving a new layer of asphalt.
Q. How long does an asphalt driveway last?
A. Properly installed, they last 15–25 years.
Q. When should I sealcoat?
A. As a general rule, sealcoat every 3-5 years to protect against UV rays, water damage, and petroleum products.
Q. Can you put asphalt over concrete?
A. Yes, but only if the underlying concrete is in good condition. Any existing cracks in the concrete will eventually "reflect" through the new asphalt.
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Q. Why does asphalt crack?
A. Cracks are often caused by subgrade failure (the ground underneath sinking or shifting) or because the asphalt becomes brittle as it ages.
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Q. How long before I can drive on it?
A. You should wait at least 24 hours to walk on new asphalt and 48 to 72 hours before driving or parking vehicles on it. In extreme heat, you may need to wait up to five days.
HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR NEW ASPHALT PROJECT
1. We ask that you keep car traffic off your driveway for at least 3 days. If temperatures are real hot, we ask that you try not to park on your driveway for up to 5 days. You may walk on your driveway right away.​
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2. Your driveway will need 6-12 months to harden and cure fully, the asphalt pavement will remain soft and pliable until then. Even after the driveway has cured, the pavement will not be as hard as concrete. Your driveway will soften and harden as temperatures rise and fall, please be aware of this in hot temperatures. If you wish, you may water down your drive with a hose on hot days to temporarily help harden the driveway.​
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3. Spot damage may occur on your drive if cars start out or stop too fast. This also may happen if you turn your steering wheel when the car is not moving. To prevent pits, holes, and gouges in your driveway, avoid using lawn chairs or kickstands on your drive. These items exert weight on concentrated areas and will mark your drive. When using car jacks and ramps or storing boats and campers, place a piece of plywood under them to help distribute the weight.
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4. Large heavy trucks can depress or damage your asphalt driveway, keep these vehicles off your asphalt driveway as much as possible.
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5. Avoid driving off the edges of your driveway, the edges can crack and crumble due to lack of side support. You may support the sides by building up the edges with topsoil or limestone. Please do not do this until after the driveway has cured. (6-12 months)
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6. You must keep dirt off the asphalt surface at all times; the dirt pulls the oils out of the blacktop.
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7. It is natural for the texture of your driveway surface to be varied. This is caused by the various sizes of sand, stone and other ingredients that make up asphalt. Also, areas that are done by hand will appear different than those done by machine.
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8. Gasoline, oil, anti-freeze, transmission and power steering fluid will soften and break up your driveway. Damage caused by these chemicals will be severe.
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9. Cracks may develop over the winter due to the contraction and expansion of the ground. Large cracks should be filled with crack filler.